Arnhem Land.

Home to around 16,000 people, Arnhem Land, covering 91,000 square kilometres, is located in the middle of Australia's northern coast and is bounded by Kakadu National Park, the Arafura Sea and the Gulf of Carpentaria.

It’s a land of wild coastlines, deserted islands, rivers teeming with fish, wonderfully lush rainforests, towering escarpments and savanna woodland.

Arnhem Land is one of the last great unspoiled areas of the world.

It has a small population of predominantly Aboriginal people with the Yolgnu being the dominant group and their traditional culture remains largely intact.

This amazing place is where the didgeridoo originated.

Like a country within a country, access to Arnhem Land is restricted by a decree of the traditional landowners.

As only select tour operators who have earned the trust of traditional landowners may bring visitors in it’s advisable to travel to Arnhem Land on a tour, this being said, it is possible to drive yourself (in a four-wheel drive only, due to road conditions) as long as you get the appropriate permit from the Northern Land Council.

Cobourg Peninsular is a particularly popular destination for four wheel driving and fishing expeditions.

Visitors seeking a different wilderness holiday can catch a light aircraft from Darwin to Nhulunby on the Gove Peninsula or Seven Spirit Bay, a paradise on the Cobourg Peninsula in Arnhem Land.

The abundant wildlife in Arnhem Land together with the Aboriginal people, whose traditional culture remains largely intact, make it an exciting destination for travellers wanting authentic cultural experiences.

The Gove Peninsula, situated at the far north east end of Arnhem Land, is one of the last true wildernesses with brilliant white beaches, unbelievable fishing and diving and more flora and fauna than you can “poke a stick at”. (an authentic Australianism meaning much more than enough).

The Gove Peninsula is an excellent bluewater sports and reef fishing location with over 30 different species of fish in the clear and unspoilt waters of the Arafura Sea.

Snorkelling and scuba diving are two very popular activities during the months of September to March due to the many beautiful coral reefs which host an abundance of marine life.

The area also has some magnificent rock art, which is a big attraction, along with its natural beauty.

As I said above you’ll need a permit to visit much of this region and these are available from the Northern Land Council office in the shopping centre in Jabiru.

You also need a permit to visit Cobourg Peninsula, as the 4WD track from Oenpelli crosses the Aboriginal land.

It is best to book extremely early as only 15 vehicles are allowed to cross per week.

Phone the administration office on (08)8999 4555 before you go.

The drive is definitely worth it, as the landscape in the Cobourg Marine Park and the Gurig National Park is unbelievable, however, you should do the 6 hour drive in one day and be aware of the tides, as after the wet season you can only get across Cahills Crossing about an hour either side of low tide.

You can also fly to Smith Point from Darwin, which is near Black Point the home to the local store.

Another place well worth a visit whilst staying in Cobourg is Port Esslington, an early British settlement built along a natural 30 kilometre harbour.

Arnhem Land certainly is enormous and its Aboriginal inhabitants share it with all sorts of wildlife.

During certain seasons the swamps and rivers teem with ducks and geese and there are crocodiles, wild buffalo, camels, kangaroos (of course) and a million different insects for you to become personally and closely acquainted with.

Yes Arnhem Land is a place you must visit; do the right thing and get permission before you venture onto Aboriginal owned land and do get permission before you take photographs of any Aboriginal people, it’s only courteous to do so, and, as we say in Oz, “don’t forget the Aerogard (personal insect repellent) and ‘ave a good weegend” or week, or two......................enjoy,

John.

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